Sam Roi Yot to Hua Hin

Started off the day biking on the highway for a bit, but it was early and not too busy. Stopped for breakfast in a little town: fried dough bits and barely boiled eggs broken into juice glasses. Kind of intense and weird but served by very nice ladies. We’ve gone sugar-native: we both mixed about two tablespoons into our tiny glasses of instant coffee.


Short day of riding, and we arrived in Hua Hin around 10am. Went and bought our train tickets for the trip to Bangkok the next day and went to hotel, the Evergreen. Very odd. Off in a residential part of the town and totally catered toward golfers. Scottish golf crap everywhere. But we got a nice big room.

We went and had tom yum soup nearby—whoa, so much offal! Seriously, like ten different unidentifiable bits floating around in there. But great broth. Dessert of shaved ice with pink syrup and condensed milk over lychee (I think) and bits of white toast. Weirdly good. We are totally addicted to sugar after having sweet drinks all day every day for a few weeks—that dessert would have made us both gag at the beginning of this trip, so sickly sweet, now we’re lapping it up.

We walked along the beach then stopped to have drinks at a very fancy resort—really, we just wanted to have a reason to sit there. Strange beach here: long and shallow and the water looked nice, but inexplicably, one was swimming. Odd. We went back to the hotel and watched bad cop shows and read.

The east coast of Thailand did not turn out to be that cool in the end. Very chill, but full of odd tourists (fat old Europeans, mostly) and not super nice beaches, kind of shallow and grimy. But the biking was nice, small roads and pretty scenery. I think we’re both a little bummed to have missed out on great beach time, maybe in Krabi or the Adaman islands, but oh well. So it goes.

We went to get massages before dinner—boy, they really whap on you. I could hear Stuart making whimpery OW sounds from a few feet away. But feels pretty good on a tired body. Afterward we walked to a nearby famous seafood place for diner, which was situated out on a pier way high over the water. Got beers and ice, and a total feast: red curry mousse (tofu?) and shrimp steamed in a coconut, fried squid (so good), a whole fish with red sauce and pork, and some Chinese broccoli with salted fish. Pretty delicious and fun.